January 27, 2009

Soda Springs

Cairns to Lakeland
Seeing an add in Cairns:

Food and accommodation in exchange for light work on a farm -
You can hike, snorkel, horse ride, swim!!

I decided to take a look and give it a go.

(It later turned out the light work wasnt light work... and the snorkelling was in a river which was 2 metres deep at most and the only way to see your hands under water was to put them on your face... so much for snorkeling...)

The coastal drive from Cairns to the north was beautiful; you drive with rain forest right on your left side and the sea right on your right side; right. Lots of beaches with huge boulders and palm trees around it, little waterfalls and more. After about 100 k`s I went inland to go to Lakeland. Went over a couple of mountains, across a lot of hills and then finally after about 200 k you end up in the middle of nowhere; Lakeland. A really small town if you realize it`s got nothing close to a town 80 k`s next to it. The only 3 shops are a bar, a fuel station and a internet cafe... eerie.

Croc farm
Half on the way I visited a crocodile farm... they farm altogether over 3000 crocs. The place is divided into the farm and the zoo where they keep crocs you can watch and other animals as well. I saw... lots of animals that day and a show where they feed a croc and toy around with it, telling some of its features and reply questions (If a dolphin would fight with a crocodile, who would win?) and later on a snake show. Was goooood.

Soda Springs

So after driving for a long while I arrive at the farm called Soda Springs, meeting aaaaallll the people there: Nena, Kevin and Noel, with Nena being the only other backpacker and Kevin and Noel living there permanently.

The location is awesome, from the house you have a view over a few mountains, allways lots of cattle in sight and at the moment everything is blue, ehr... i mean green. Though that changes a lot if you arrive in the other season. The house itself... lets say it is good I lived on my own for a few years to prepare me... A lot of small vermin (I`ve never seen so much flies clustered together), everything is unclean, the towels used to dry the dishes with I wouldn`t use to clean my car, and for the rest just general mess lying everywhere. Too bad they misuse such a beautifull place to live.

I wont tell too much about working there, because... well, it sucked. What a world of difference compared to the Hare Krishna`s... I was working (at least) 5 hours per day, and doing definately not light work. And the Hare Krishna belief that you look like and act the animals you eat... I still don`t believe it completely, but after seeing Noel eat so much pig... huhm... (Meeeeaaaannnn!)

And then you would think or hope that you would learn something when you work at a place like that; something about animals, trees, machinery, or whatever. But I dont think i learned that much there, at least not while working. I think it might have something to do with the kind of work I did...
- Picking weeds
- Moving hay from one of the paddocks to the garden
- Hammering on one piece of oiled gear for over an hour, really
- Picking up metal parts, left there like 2 years ago
- Rockpicking... really, rockpicking...

Even that kind of work can be worth doing sometimes, but at least 50% of it could have been avoided if they either clean up their mess after they`re done with it (I sound like my mother... huhm) or if they actually plan something in advance. The other thing; I dont think I`ve heard a "please" or "thank you" in any sentence uttered by Noel, ever. I could write a lot more of those niceties, but I`ll write the fun parts instead ;-)

Horse riding
So after doing about 5 hours of work Nina and I got the whole afternoon free to do whatever. so after a few days there I had my first day of horseback riding. After one afternoon in the paddocks to test my ribs out we went into the open fields. Riding around there is great; you got a view over the mountain range and riding around trees, cows, sheep and roos; ducking below branches and crossing creeks.

The creek crossing was pretty exciting; the horse wants to get over it as soon as possible and starts moving pretty quick when its almost over. I mean; how would you feel when you cross a small river walking through sand and water with 80 kilos on your back urging you to hurry?

On the last day she told me that at a riding school it usually takes 6 months before they let you cant (gallop). Eep.

Guitar playing
So to "trade" for the horse riding lessons I taught a little guitar; actually a farm is a bad place for that... the only positive comments were from me; cows booing; chickens chuckling, sheep meckering... But still a lot of fun.

Cooktown
After a couple of days work we took a day off, went to Cooktown. Alltough it was Australia Day (National holiday, all shops are closed...) it was still very good. Did some walking through the town into the rainforest and across the beaches and visited Hilly Grass Lookout, a 360 degrees lookout over the ocean, Cooktown itself and a lighthouse.

After that went to look for a swimming spot; the days are hot here; it can be over 35 celcius in the shade... swimming isnt a bad idea with those temparatures... After some driving we came across the Lions Den, so we went for a feed instead. And... they had a piano... I couldnt resist :) After playing (and getting compliments, positive ones! (Is that a pleonasm?)) we found a good place for some swimming and rockhopping; Anna`s Gorge.

And another plus side: Nina had a camera, so if all goes well I`ll upload some pictures soon.

Christmas stories
So far I only wrote my own stories (makes sense, doesnt it?), but this one is too good not to mention;
While Nina was there for a good 6 weeks, Christmas was getting closer, and because Kevin was celebrating with his family she and Noel were the only two on the farm.
So when the day finally arrives:

Nina: "Merry christmas Noel".
Noel: "Christmas is just another fucking day".

Sweeeeeeeeeeet.

Mossman`s gorge
After saying goodbye I was off south again... going slowly back to Brisbane where my plane leaves the end of march to Thailand where I stay for about a month.
Arriving at Mossman I went to visit Mossman`s Gorge; World Heritage National Park.
Did the walking track there and a lot of swimming. The water is perfect for swimming on hot days; alltough it comes from the mountains it isn`t ice cold, it`s nice cold.

January 12, 2009

Cairns

Vengeance is mine, and I will repay
From Caleb (Who invited me for last Christmas) I got the book "the Message", it`s a new testament bible told in today’s words. So I started reading the first chapters, mostly pretty familiar; but more in detail since the last time I read it (a children’s bible). Though different text, the message still has a lot of similarities with the child`s version and other "bibles" I`ve read. Don’t do to others what you don’t want done to yourself, giving, turning the other cheek...

So I`m sitting in Cairns, sipping from my cappuccino reading a little when a bum comes up and asks for some money, for food. Thinking (almost knowing the way he walks) that the food will be in a liquid form I ask if he doesn’t get dole money from the government, or why he doesn’t work, like I did for my money... getting only murmurs and still asking for some money I thought: 'Ok, let’s try that bible thing out, as Jesus said: "If you give, you will never regret it"'. So I gave him some money, he thanks me and wonders off...

So after doing that good deed I expected, I dunno, a sign from God that he approves, a big light or something... or maybe a bigger guitar falling from the back of a truck to prove I won’t regret giving the money... nothing of that really. Instead I walk back to my car and notice that it`s been broken into (again).

Thanks...

Luckily all the thief took was some money, all my cd music (I hope he has good taste...) and my toilet bag to put the money in - he left my guitar and car radio.

Waterfalls
So after reporting that I left Cairns to do the Waterfall route - a 300 km route around the Atherton tablelands.

The first day I climb Mount Walsh, a pyramid shaped mountain. Although it isn’t even a km high (950ish) I can’t remember the last time I was that exhausted, the only "path" is that it is marked, but no stairs or pavement or anything.

Over the next couple of days I saw a lot of waterfalls. At the moment it`s the wet season here, and the good thing about that is the size of the waterfalls is bigger than just the mere trickle it is in wintertime (the dry season). At most places you can swim in the water, as long as it is reasonably certain that you don`t fall down 80 meters off the waterfall :). Whee.

Piano paying off
Still on the waterfall way I come across 2 lakes (maars), former by former volcanoes. In one of them (Lake Eacham) I take a swim, see some nice fishies and a turtle. And at the other there is a beautiful restaurant... with a piano! So after ordering my cappuccino (hopefully no beggars here...) I ask if I can play a little, and I can. Getting some nice comments on my playing (even my photo taken ;-)) I also get some free scones from the bar - finally all my years of practicing have been paid off! Was really nice.

Rock wallabies
After that I traveled around lake Tinaroo I ended up in Atherton where I saw the remains of a Chinese temple which was disappointing. I went to Tolga where I took a look in a woodcrafter which made up for the Chinese temple. After that I tried to go the wetlands at Mareeba. But as the name says; while trying to get there I come across a flowing river which cuts off the entrance... touché.

So instead I went to the granite Rocks more south of Mareeba. By now it had rained a lot for the last couple of days... the bridges that you can normally walk on at the granite Rocks are all flooded. It`s actually really beautiful to see a river flooding so hugely. I walked up the boulders, jumping over streams from boulder to boulder like a 12 year old kid, was great. I also saw some rock wallabies around the rocks, they move way to fluent, and can climb insanely... moving really fast and secure.

I found them less elegant when they woke me up at 2 am jumping on my car - not kidding.

Charlotte and 4 wheel drives
On my way back to Cairns, meeting a girl who maybe wants to travel north, it really started pouring down. I decided to camp at Davies. Arriving there with no problems I walk around a little, take a look at the waterfall, cook a little and play guitar, and then go to sleep. I wake up around 4am because of the heavy rain, thunder and wind and sadly stay awake.

So I started driving back to the highway at 6 am, but after driving just a few kilometers I see a small river. Hey! That wasn’t here yesterday... seems the rain was quite heavy. I walk out of my car; take a look at the water... "meh, doesn’t look that deep".

Though I don’t exactly have a 4WD. The only 4WD about my car is that it has 4 wheels... and it drives...

I get back into the car and started driving... pedal to the metal. Went pretty easy, and the big water movement on both sides of the car looks pretty. So I climb up to the next hill, over it, down it, Damnit! There is another one...
I can’t see the bottom of it so I wade across... almost knee deep... huhm...

So I turn on the radio, hear about Charlotte (the cyclone) raving through further north Queensland and a lot of roads blocked, drainage problems, water moving into houses, super high tides... and wait.

After reading for a hour still no car from either side passed,

After another 30 minutes still nothing,

So I gathered my nerves and just decided to try it, thinking it shouldn’t be a problem for a really heavy car only resting on 4 points to drive across a little creek. And luckily it worked out okay.

After that I drove to Kuranda, had a second look at the Barren river. Last week when I was here it was just a trickle of water... I think it was at least 5 times the magnitude - a big thunder of water crushing down for a few hundred meters. I don’t think I would be allowed (or willing...) to swim in there.

So now I`m back in Cairns, seeing if someone wants to travel north. I will be waiting for the weather to calm down a little, and then on the road again. I just heard that over the last 24 hours, over 450 mm of water has fallen...

Pen vs. camera - a thousand words
I hope the amount of text made up a little for the lack of photographs. I`m sorry I can`t show you the pictures of my face after the car break in, rock wallabies jumping on my car or a movie of me going full speed through the river...

Soon hopefully

Links:
Cyclone
Granite Gorge
Lake Barrine
Atherton Tablelands
Barren river waterfall